The “Villes des musiques du monde” festival runs in working-class towns (banlieues) north of Paris. Some of them made headlines exactly a decade ago when rioting broke out.But the festival, now in its 16th year, believes more than ever that their diverse racial and cultural mix is a source of creativity.“Living culture is in the suburbs, not in Paris,” says festival director Kamel Dafri.
This year the organisers have chosen the theme “Les Andalouses” for the cultural and religious tolerance Andalusia symbolised back in the 15th century under what’s known as Convivencia.
“It’s about Andalusia past, present and future,” says festival founder André Falucci.
Towns like Aubervilliers and St Denis had their own “Little Spain” after migrants fleeing the Spanish civil war settled there.
Since then, the banlieues have become even more multi-cultural, notably with waves of migration from the Maghreb.
“It’s not always easy,” recognises Falucci, “but you have to try and bring people together. Music’s good for that.”
But it was particularly after January’s terrorist attacks in and around Paris which spurred an increase in islamaphobic and anti-semitic attacks, that Andalusia, symbol of religious tolerance in the past, became an obvious choice.
“We need this festival,” says Dafri. “I hope it can calm down some of the tension.”
This year’s programme includes traditional, modern and fusion flamenco, an all-female Chaâbi band, Sefaradi Circus, the young Arabo-Andalusian El Mawsili orchestra...
It opened with “The Andalousias: from the Bosphorus to Gibraltar Straits” a new work from dancers Nuria Rovira Salat and Karine Gonzalez.
One particularly strong set showed the two women, their faces delicately veiled, turning incessantly like whirling dervishes. Only at the end did they reveal themselves.
“We’re a bit like sisters, mirror images of one another, you don’t really know who is who,” explains Salat.
Accompanied by fine musicians from Spain and the Balkans, the duo wanted people to understand that the borders between cultures are actually very limited, and that they benefit mutually from this intermingling.
“Nowadays cultures are so mixed that “intermixing” is the real culture,” she adds.
But in a sad sign of the times, sub-Saharan Africa didn’t make it into this year’s melting pot.
The Awa Guinean Drums Trio, programmed for three concerts, were all cancelled following the French embassy’s decision to refuse them visas.
“It’s worrying,” says Dafri. “It’s very difficult to invite sub-Saharan artists now. There’s barbed wire around French administration.”
They now hope the festival’s partner in Tunisia will welcome the Guinean project.
Villes des musiques du monde runs through to 8 November. Check out its facebook page (in French)
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