French farmer battles to market 'natural' foie gras made without force-feeding

A farmer in Alsace, eastern France, has developed a method for producing foie gras without force-feeding geese – though due to rules protecting the name of the controversial delicacy, she is not yet allowed to market her product under that name.

A farmer in Alsace, eastern France, says she has developed a method for producing foie gras without force-feeding birds. © AFP - Franck Fife

The Meyer farm in Eberbach-Gundershoffen, in the Bas-Rhin region of north-eastern France, has been producing foie gras since 1985.

Aline Meyer says she intends to continue the tradition, but without force-feeding her geese.

"Personally, I don't like to do that," Meyer told France Bleu Alsace. "It gives me pleasure to see them happy, I like to see them walk around until the end."

Literally translated as "fat liver", the product is a popular French delicacy and often served during the festive season.

Rich and buttery, foie gras is sold whole or turned into a smooth mousse, parfait or pâté, and can be eaten on toast or served as an accompaniment.

Animal lovers have attacked the production methods. They say force-feeding geese or ducks to fatten their livers is cruel.

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A serving of salt-cured fresh foie gras with herbs (illustration). © AP / M. Spencer Green

Natural eating patterns

Meyer explains that geese have a natural instinct to gorge themselves as they prepare to migrate, to build up energy reserves that cause their livers to swell.

She feeds them a rich diet of maize, wheat and soya, but also adds treats such as honey-soaked bread and sultanas.

"It's like us: if we have little pleasures on the side, we're bound to eat more," she said.

The farmer explained that she doesn't seek to grow her flock's livers to the maximum: "My aim is to reach 400 to 500 grammes, whereas with force-fed livers, you can go up to 1 kilo, 1.2 kilos."

A duck being force-fed with corn on a farm in southwestern France. © Bob Edme/AP

According to Meyer, it's not harmful for the animal, because the process is reversible.

"We tested cutting out certain types of feed and maintaining only the basic diet, and the liver shrank again," she said.

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However, this "natural foie gras" is not entitled to the official foie gras appellation, which is reserved for force-fed animals.

Meyer said she hopes to be able to market her version as early as next year.

It takes two to three months longer to produce than traditional force-feeding, she said, and the price is three times higher than traditional foie gras, at €530 per kilo.